Boa Constrictor
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Introduction and diary - facts, caresheets, photos, links      main   snakes   ball python   short tailed python   blood python   chameleon

A short introduction of my friend:
  • Central American Red-tailed Boa - latin name Boa constrictor constrictor
  • male, captive bred
  • current length: about 29 inches ( 74 cm ) (April 25, 2003)
  • very tame, friendly, absolutely does not mind to be handled, calm, responsive and curious - the best pet snakes for anyone wanting to take care of a serpent. Very flexible and mascular, incredible strength - pure muscle which you can even see through his silk skin.

Photos:

  
  First photos before adoption:


after meal


close up

closer

  
  Casual:


2.5" of boa


U - turn

on it's way

  Shedding:

Photos will come later

  Eating:


strike

found the head

getting ready

head on first

a big mouth

almost there

only tail left

a bit more

full - finally...

Some photos of boa constrictors that cought my attention:

Below are examples of how diverse and beautiful boa constrictors can be.
( Disclaimer: the images below have been collected from the internet using Google.com search engine and had no copyright information with them, but if any would violate anyone's copyrights please let me know and I will remove them promptly )

Photos will come later

There is a variety of boa constrictors depending on the geographical location they come from. which has been accomplished due to experimentation and selection when choosing the individuals for breeding. There are literally dozens of types and some are quite rare and expensive, costing thousends of dollars for one animal.

Some basic info about boa constrictors:

Boa constrictors are from humid rain forests in Central and South America. They grow to large sizes, although some of their subspecies stay small. Large females of common boa constrictors can weigh more than 70 pounds. They are live bearers - they don't lay eggs like most pythons and colubrids.

Basics about captive setup:

Boa constrictors (the red-tailed boas), are considered medium to large snakes. They are nocturnal and spend most of the day coiled up in their hiding spot. They will become active and explore at nigh. Although they feel comfortable climbing, branches are not necessary to keep them in captivity.

The most important thing to remember and take care of when keeping a boa constrictor is the adequate temperature gradient and humidity. A 20-30 gallon tank at first and over a 100 gallon later is adequate. Most people keep their babies in Rubbermaid plastic containers, and adults in custom built cages. The temperatures at the cooler end should be around 72 - 75 F , and the hot area at 90 - 95 F. There are three main sources of heat that can be used: an undertank heat mat, a ceramic heat emitter and an overhead night heat lamp. The overhead light should be switched off at night for the proper day-night cycle. The humidity should be maintained at 50-60%. It will usually drop lower than that - the cage should have good ventilation. Most keepers mist the enclosure and the snake daily to keep the humidity at proper levels. It is especially important whe the boa is about to shed its skin.

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The best material for substrate are aspen shavings, cypress mulch and newsprint (not chemically treated or printed). It is easy to clean and the aspen or cypress will help in keeping the moisture at a desired level.

The enclosure should have at least one hiding place.

To monitor temperatures and humidity the tank should be equipped with at least two thermometers (one at the cold, one at the hot end) and one hygrometer for shecking the humidity (situated in the middle of the enclosure).

Another necessity is a solid heavy ceramic bowl with drinking water for the snake. In large enough enclosures a tab is a nice addition - it will let the snake soak in it.

Boa constrictors will usually eat mice and rats in captivity. Large specimen will also take rabbits. Smaller snakes should be fed about once a week first smaller then larger mice, 2-3 at a feeding as they become larger, and eventually switched to rats. Larger snakes will eat less frequently, two times a month. They are also known to refuse food, for months at a time - which is ok as long as the snake does not loose weight and appears healthy.

Feeding the snake live food is not recommended. If feeding live, the snake should never be left alone with a mice or a rat, which can severely injure or even kill your pet. A very important thing is to always wash your hands before handling the snake - especially after handling rodents. The snake might mistake the handlers hand for food and strike at it.

Is a good practice to handle your boa daily for a few minutes - it learn to recognize you and become tame.

About my setup:

I keep my baby and juvenile boa constrictors in Rubbermaid plastic containers in a custom made rack system. The larger boas are in custom made enclosures, which I have equipped with larger water containers and a couple of driftwood branches for them to climb.

Breeding:

( in progress )

Health issues:

( in progress )

Boa constrictors:


      Boa constrictor clubs:


My Boa Constrictors Diary:

Event Patterns:

Growth charts:

Date April. 25/2004 May 05/2003June 28/2003
Length 75 cm (2.4' - 29") 75 cm (2.4' - 29")92 cm (3' - 36")
Weight - g (lb. - oz.) 275 g (0.6lb. - 9.7oz.)575 g (1.26lb. - 20.1oz.)
Remarks arrived ate 2 mice yesterday 3 days after eating a rat

The only difference between people who hate and love reptiles is that those who hate them never tried to know them.
Those who did become addicts.
Yes, you can say reptiles are dangerous...

                                                                                                                                       Stan Gielewski


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